As a result of Turkey's rich history, many Muslims from
around the world have chosen to come to Istanbul as tourists, students and
workers. But how does Ramadan here differ from their native countries? For
Muslims, Ramadan is a time to devote themselves to God and self-discipline. For
me, observing Ramadan rituals in a Muslim country is one of the great travel
experiences.
During the daylight hours, it’s polite to refrain from
eating, drinking (and even smoking) on the streets or on public terraces.
Instead, try to do it inside establishments such as restaurants and cafés.
Restaurants are less busy at lunch, the staff will be happy to serve you.
Not every Muslim fasts during Ramadan. For instance,
exemptions are granted to young children, pregnant women, the sick, and the
elderly. Tourists will find restaurants and tea shops open throughout the day
during Ramadan; it's polite to confine eating and drinking to those
establishments, out of respect for — and out of the sight of — people who are
fasting.
The happy, multi-generational partying that follows the
breaking of the fast at sunset every night is a sight that's not to be missed.
After hours of not eating, people are ready to chow down. Many rush home, while
others stop for a quick bite at one of many temporary food stands. Restaurants
that have been empty all day are suddenly marked by long lines stretching down
the street. The city comes alive with shadow puppet theaters, public concerts,
and traditional folk dances.
During the evenings, I find myself drawn to the rollicking
food fest around the Hippodrome, a park-like square (formerly a Roman chariot
racetrack) in the center of the Old Town. The Blue Mosque's courtyard turns
into a huge market with religious books, computer programs, and even teen wear
for sale. Young girls make head scarves fashionable. Sticky treats shine under
swinging lamps. Turkish coffee burbles in copper kettles buried deep in red
coals. Hourglass-shaped tea glasses are the perfect fit for Turkish hands.
Seeing the twinkling lights strung up in honor of Ramadan, I think,
"Charming — they've draped Christmas lights between the minarets."
Then I realize that a Turk might come to my house in December and say,
"Charming — he's draped Ramadan lights on his Christmas tree."
