What To Do In Istanbul During Summer

A Day Sailing In Istanbul

From mid-June until the middle of October the summer heat settles permanently in Istanbul. During summer in Istanbul the hottest months are July and August, the temperature can reach 35 degrees celsius.

Summer is also the time of the year in which Istanbul is the quietest. The Istanbulites usually spend their holidays in their hometowns or in the many resorts in Turkey.The city is emptied of its residents, it is really a time that I like because the traffic declines and it becomes very easy to get around the city, enjoy the shores of the Bosphorus, the Black Sea or the Marmara, and to breathe some fresh air out of the heat of the city.

Blue Mosque

                                                     

Istanbul has become a year-round destination. Midsummer is sultry, but this is a great time to enjoy an outdoor meal at a Bosphorus-front fish restaurant, or Turkish coffee at a pavement cafe.

The Bosphorus Cruise

From the deck of your boat, glance left to see the shoreline of Europe, right to see the wooded hills of Asia. Pass underneath the massive spans of two intercontinental suspension bridges, or watch skeins of shearwaters skim the surface of the Strait.

Enjoy the best yoghurt in Turkey, dusted in icing sugar, brought aboard by itinerant vendors at Kanlıca, topped off by a cheap and cheerful fish lunch at the last stop, Anadolu Kavağı, a charming fishing village dominated by a Byzantine castle.

Cruises operated by Şehirhatları (www.sehirhatları.com.tr) depart from just east of the Galata Bridge in Eminönü at 10.35am year round, 10.35am and 1.35pm May-Sept, with a noon departure usually added June 9th-August 29th. Cost 25TL round-trip.

If time is a consideration try the one and a half hour cruise operated by Turyol (www.turyol.com) for 12TL. Boats depart hourly on the hour year round and go as far as the second suspension bridge. En route you’ll see everything from the ornate Domabahçe Palace to the Ottoman fortress of Rumeli Hisarı, plus scores of cormorants and low-flying squadrons of shearwaters. The Turyol quay is just west of the Galata Bridge in Eminönü.

The Princes Islands

In their 19th-century heyday, the Princes’ Islands, just an hour’s ride from the ferry terminal at Kabataş, were the playground/summer retreat of the city’s wealthy elite – many of them Greek or Armenian Christians. Their fin-de-siècle wooden mansions dot the islands, especially the biggest, Büyük Ada, as do their churches.

The islands still provide respite from the big city, and Istanbulites come here to take horse-drawn carriage rides (cars are banned on all the islands), hire bicycles, picnic or tuck into a fish meal.

Ferries run by Şehirhatları (www.sehirhatlari.com.tr) run from the tram terminus at Kabataş, are frequent in summer and, and return fares a bargain 10TL (£3.70), much faster catamarans from Kabataş, operated by IDO (www.ido.com.tr) charge 18TL return. Both ferries and catamarans are considerably cheaper with an İstanbulkart.

Go to the beach or the swimming pool

During the Summer Istanbul is a little quieter , there is less congestion because many Istanbulians take refuge on the south coast . In addition to the historical parts of the city, you may be tempted to enjoy a day at the beach for a day trip. Summer in Istanbul is really hot .

For those of us who live in Istanbul, it is a real pleasure to be able to enjoy the sea which is only twenty kilometres from the hustle and heat of the city centre. The Northern part of Istanbul is still very wild with forests, beaches and small villages.

The peninsula is bordered by the Black Sea and offers large sandy beaches . These beaches are still unknown to travellers as very few are mentioned in conventional guides

Our selection of the best beaches in Istanbul :

Babylon Beach Sound Garden

Burc Beach

Suma Beach club

Uzunya Beach

What NOT to do in Istanbul

What NOT to do in Istanbul

Heading to Istanbul or moving there and unsure of how to make the most of out of the city? We´re sure you’re familiar with some of the city’s most magical locations, but do you know what to NEVER do in Istanbul?

Don’t wear revealing clothing to mosques

Goes without saying but perhaps a solid reminder. Respect Turkish etiquetteand dress appropriately (cover as much of your skin as you can) – especially in mosques and churches.

Don’t stick to foods you know

Be adventurous and explore your taste buds. Istanbul is home to some of the most delicious foods (and plenty of new spices) you can find and we can guarantee you will fall in love with at least a few of them. Doner kebab, baklava, mercimek, sutlac rice pudding, dondurma sticky ice cream, sesame seed covered pretzels and delicious street food – Istanbul is an absolute paradise for foodies. And don’t even bother visiting McDonalds or Starbucks.

Don’t take a taxi (unless you really have to)

As most large cities (we’re looking at you, London), taxis are expensive and the journey through the never-ending traffic can be draining – walk and explore new neighborhoods (or better yet, those more daring can also ride a bike).

Don’t fall into tourist traps

Istanbul is the 6th most visited city in the world and thrives off tourism. Whether you are a newly-moved resident or just visiting, you should steer clear off common tourist traps and always keep an eye on your belongings. Turks are extremely friendly and will help you with everything you might need – but as you know, you can always find trouble in every city.

Don’t ignore the city’s most popular attractions

Yeah, we know they’re touristy and there’s crowds, cliches and huge waiting queues. But it’s Istanbul and there will be crowds everywhere you go. Landmarks like Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and Dolmabahçe Palace will bring an unforgettable (and sometimes very much needed) zen into your life that you won’t be able to get anywhere else so put them back on your travel itinerary.

Don’t get scared of stray animals

Stray animals have been a huge part of Istanbul’s history and these four (and sometimes three, two or one) legged creatures are quite the controversial topic in some areas of the city. The city has a “Trap Tag and Release program” – the animals get vaccinated and then re-released back on the streets. However, these animals suffer as much abuse as they get loved – be on the good sideand make sure you’re nice to these homeless creatures. Or better yet, adopt one into your new home in Istanbul!

Do Not Expect the Drivers to Stop

In Istanbul things work differently. Turkish drivers do not stop for pedestrians even if they should. They think that vehicles have a right of way at all times. To them, pedestrian crossings usually do not mean more than diagonal stripes or chevrons painted on the road. So, as a pedestrian you have to give way to cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Have eye contact with the driver and make sure that he is going to yield the way. Be careful at all times and do not expect the drivers stop, even if the little green man tells you to cross the road.

Do Not Try to Understand ‘Dolmuş’ Drivers

A dolmuş is a privately operated car or smaller bus. Locals frequently use it to get around. There is a placard in the window showing its destination, and depending on its capacity, it holds up to 15-20 people. But the “capacity” is always open to question and known by no one but the driver.

The adventure starts once it takes off after every seat is taken. As it lumbers down the road, the dolmuş driver honks to see if people along the way want a ride and also to alert other drivers and let them know that he is coming. The driver speeds up when the vehicle is filled up, or better to say that passengers are packed in like sardines in a can. Soon you realize that the driver is determined to set not only the Guinness records for number of passengers per ride, but also getting from point A to B in shortest amount of time.

All dolmus drivers are similar. They are reckless, unruly, and ignorant. They use their brakes only for picking up or dropping off new passengers. They careen dangerously around corners, change lanes while counting out change, and maneuver in different ways you would not even attempt in a video game.

A trip by a dolmuş in Istanbul is like a high-speed ride in a stolen car. Don’t try to understand the dolmuş drivers in Istanbul. Just join the locals and enjoy this adventurous ride from the outskirts of the city to downtown at the price of a dollar or two.

Do Not Show Your Wealth

Like so many other big cities, there is a risk of falling victim to theft and crime in Istanbul. Although the installment of CCTV cameras has dramatically reduced the incidences of pick pocketing, mugging, and bag-snatching, undesirable encounters still occur in Istanbul. Like real coyotes, the coyotes of Istanbul hunt both day and night and run swiftly. They mark people who stand out as easy prey and victimize them. Do not let them ruin your holiday. Just be watchful in and around tourist areas, including Sultanahmet, the Istiklal Street, and the Taksim Square, and don’t show off your wealth.

Do Not Pick Restaurants That Do Not Provide Menus

A dinner in a restaurant which does not look fancy can turn out to be awfully pricey. There are rip-off restaurants that care to make money, not satisfy customers. Those restaurants usually do not provide menus to customers; instead a waiter comes and ‘recommends’ certain foods that you should try. Stay away from such restaurants and don’t waste your hard earned money on restaurants that are only concerned with their profit margins.

Do Not Look Like an American Tourist

You should avoid looking like an American tourist. Not because the Turks do not like the Americans. It is exactly the opposite. Turks do love the Americans, especially American tourists who stand out like sore thumbs. Americans are at the top of the list of spendthrifts among all nationalities. Therefore, if you shine like a “rich American” in the crowd you may likely be sucked into tourist traps, targeted by carpet dealers in the Grand Bazaar, and pay through the nose. Innocent questions like “where are you from?,” “where are you staying?,” or “where do you work in America?,” in fact, are all ingeniously asked by a carpet dealer to understand your origin, economic status, and personality. Get ready to fudge direct questions about your life, and try to deconstruct the image of stereotypical American wearing a baseball cap, athletic shoes, and brand name t-shirts with easily readable names like Nike, Gap, Abercrombie, etc.

Do not argue that baklava is Greek

Well, not only baklava… Many other types of mouth-watering food are disputed between the Greeks and Turks. There are many legends and rumors claiming the originality of baklava, doner, dolmades, kofte, kokorec, tzatziki, etc. It is silly to try to find out “who invented first?” Baklava is an old dessert originating in the 8th century B.C. Turks and Greeks (and even Arabs) claim it but we will never know. Food transcends political and cultural borders. Baklava, like other contested food, is eaten by everybody from the Balkans to the Arab lands. To be on the safe side, do not argue that baklava is Greek. Leave the politics out of kitchen and allow Turkish chefs to mesmerize your taste buds.

Do not wear a flimsy sundress to the Blue Mosque

Turkey is a secular country with a predominantly Muslim population. While you will encounter women covered head to toe just about everywhere in Istanbul, you will also see women with much less clothing than in America walking down the same street. Dress casually in Istanbul, but please remember to dress properly when you visit religious places, such as the Blue Mosque. Do not forget to bring along a layer of “modest dress” to cover your legs, shoulders, and chest. For example, don a t-shirt instead of a sleeveless top. For your legs, pants, a long skirt, or shorts that end at your knees would be appropriate. Just try not to wear mini-skirts or tight Kylie Minogue shorts. It is also advisable to cover your hair with a scarf although non-Muslim women are mostly tolerated if they do not wrap their heads tightly. In short, no dress codes, no worries! Just a little respect in the house of God…

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5 Things To Do In Istanbul

SABRINA ANDREA SACHS ·

In Istanbul, you can follow us, or do cooler, more unique things. I always opt for the off the beaten path stuff, not only because I’m a cool kid (:P), but also because I have this deep desire and curiosity to go beyond the surface, to truly understand the city, the country and the people who live there.


I am not suggesting to miss Istanbul’s major sites, but once you’ve done them, here are 5 unique things to do in Istanbul to make your stay in Turkey even more memorable.

See also: What To NEVER Do In Istanbul

1. Street Art Everywhere

All over Istanbul, wall and shutters of all types and forms are blank canvases for incredible artwork that you will want to capture with your camera. If you are lucky enough, you will also manage to see one of the street artists in action.

2. Jewellery Workshop

All around the world there are all sorts of workshops, from food to handwriting, from photography to bakery, but have you ever thought about making your own (or your lover’s) jewel right with your own hands? Well, in Istanbul you can! You can do so at theOttoman Jewellery Workshop in the Gran Bazaar.

3. Hagia Sophia

It’s already very rare in the world to find a city where different religions meet and melts, but in Istanbul, there is also the only place in the world that has served to three religions throughout the history. It’s a stunning building on top of being a meaningful one. While you’re here, check out the underground tunnels Cisterna Basílica (Yerebatan sarnıcı).

4. Go to Asia – easily!

Istanbul is the only city in the world to stretch over two continents: Europe and Asia. While the city’s main tourist sites are on the European side, you should totally hop on the bus OR BOAT over the Bosphorous Bridge for a taste of Asia. Don’t miss the markets in Kadiköy and the Beylerbeyi Palace. Try simit, drink tea, and have fun! And maybe make time for a spectacular sunset at the top of Çamlica Hill.

You can also PARTY on the sea, right between Europe and Asia in Suada, a fantastic nightclub and a restaurant with breathtaking views.

5. Go naked!

Many of the up-class hotels in Istanbul have hammams also known as Turkish baths, but they are made for Western tourists and they don’t represent the real hammam naked experience. If you really want to try the Turkish way, you should ask some locals in the Old Town and be ready to strip topless without being shy!

What are YOUR favorite unique things to do in Istanbul? Comment below!



See you in Istanbul!

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Free Things to Do in Istanbul

By Daniel Bortz and Caitlin Etherton

Istanbul is located in the middle of...everything. A three-sea treasure trove of sights, sounds, and tastes, it bridges the gap between Europe and Asia, East and West, old and new, afternoon prayer and after-dinner nightlife. As Turkey’s largest city and seaport, it encourages one to wander—to be surprised by tumbling baskets of exotic spices, street-side barrel organ melodies, underground cisterns and swirling mosque interiors that make you feel like you’re floating in some Mediterranean blue dream of a Turkish poem.

Soaring minarets, colorful bazaars, 25 Byzantine churches and 400 fountains are a testament to the Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, all hopelessly attracted to the beauty and position of this ancient city. With the help of our city guide of free activities, describing everything from tulip-filled parks to Topkapi Palace, you can make your way through the streets of Istanbul free as a bird—kuş gibi özgür.

Art/Museums

The Istanbul Modern is housed in a recently renovated two-story warehouse. It was the first modern arts museum to open in the city. Admission is free every Thursday, enabling tourists to see its expansive photography gallery, cinema hall, and new media art area.

Istanbul Modern

Located within the new Santralistanbul culture complex, the Museum of Energy takes visitors on a tour through the history of electricity. Have fun in the Energy Play Zone, where interactive units give visitors a chance to build magnetic sculptures, touch thousands of volts, generate their own electricity, and participate in 19 other educational activities.

Santral Istanbul

Believed to be the first fine arts museum in Turkey, the Museum of Painting and Sculpture promotes works of 19th- and 20th-century Turkish artists. Founded by the order of Ataturk in 1937, the museum houses pieces from such famous Turkish artists as Osman Hamdi Bey, Bedri Rahmi, and Seker Ahmet Pasa alongside works from international artists like Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. Visits to the museum are free every day from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. except on Sundays and Mondays, when the museum is closed.

Museum of Painting and Sculpture

Pay a visit to Ortakoy on a Sunday and revel in the wonder of this seaside suburb’s open-air market. Street artists paint portraits while selling their work to passersby strolling through the narrow cobbled streets. Some of the best street food in the city can be found here, at the food market adjacent to the crafts section, underneath the Bosporus bridge—the first bridge to connect Istanbul’s European border to Asia.

Ortakoy

Attractions

Perched atop a hill, the Suleymaniye Mosque, located near Istanbul University's north gate, lures visitors with magnificent Ottoman architecture and scenic views of the city’s skyline. One of the largest mosques in Istanbul the Suleymaniye was completed in the 16th century and boasts an awe-inspiring dome at 53 meters high and nearly 27 meters wide. A walk around the well-kept courtyard treats visitors to lush gardens and columns made of marble, granite, and porphyry.

Suleymaniye Mosque

Once a frequent setting for state celebrations and royal entertainment, the Topkapi Palace served as the Ottoman Empire’s administrative headquarters from the 1470s to the 1850s. In the years following his conquest of Constantinople, Sultan Mehmet II ordered for the construction of military barracks, a council chamber, a reception hall, and other official buildings on here on Seraglio Point, a promontory guarding the northern entrance to the Sea of Marmara. Throughout the following 400 years, these foundations evolved into a luxurious palace containing four courtyards connected by smaller buildings that once housed more than 4,000 people. Now part of the Historic Areas of Istanbul UNESCO World Heritage site, the palace holds reminders of the fallen empire in maintaining large collections of porcelain robes, weapons, armor, Arabic calligraphy, ancient manuscripts, and Ottoman jewelry.

Topkapi Palace Birds View

By the time you’re done planning your visit and gaining access to the Florence Nightingale Muzesi a task that often involves calling ahead, and mailing your passport details, expected time of arrival, and permission from the Selimiye army that guards it—the museum may seem more like an elitist club than a museum, but it’s worth it. In the museum’s barracks, once an overcrowded, unsanitary hospital for wounded soldiers during the Crimean War, Florence Nightingale and her team of nurses developed the standard for modern nursing practices. Be sure to walk up the winding, wooden staircase in the corner tower to see the bedroom where some historians believe Nightingale slept during her time tending to injured Turkish army men. Located at Birinci Ordu Komutanligi, Selimiye Kislasi in Selimiye Kislasi. Call 90 216 343 73 10 for information on how to visit.

Florence Nightingale Museum

Admire the grandeur and art of Islamic architecture at the Sultanahmet Mosque, more popularly known as the “Blue” Mosque for its interior blue tiles. Commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and built in the early 17th century, it was among the last of Istanbul’s Mosques constructed in the classical Ottoman style. It stirred controversy for possessing six minarets—a display of wealth and power previously reserved for the Prophet’s mosque—but today the site offers a beautiful glimpse into Istanbul’s history. Take time to stop and enjoy the peaceful park that sits at the base of the mosque. Visitors must enter the mosque through the north gate.

Sultanahmet Mosque

Food lovers rejoice: Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar (located at the southern end of the Galata Bridge) is one of the oldest covered spice markets in the world. The exotic food market sells a wide range of herbs, spices, nuts, dried fruits and vegetables, and nuts. Health shops also offer moisturizers, anti-cellulite lotions, ant-egg creams for unwanted body hair, and herbal teas for the mind and body.

Spice Bazaar

The largest of several hundred ancient cisterns lying beneath Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern (Located in Sultanahmet Square) transports visitors to the sixth century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Marked by Medusa heads at the base of two of its columns, the cistern remains empty today but was built to store up to 100,000 tons of water for the city. It’s also a popular movie location, with scenes from hits like the 1963 James Bond film From Russia with Love and last year’s The Internationalshot there. Donations suggested.

Basilica Cistern

Antique aficionados and travelers interested in authentic Turkish goods can walk through some of the more than 4,000 shops at Kapali Carsi, the country’s largest covered market. It usually extends from Beyazit Square downhill to Eminonu, a transportation nexus located along the Golden Horn. Whether you’re in search of large Turkish carpets, shiny brassware, handmade pottery, or delicate lamps, the market promises it all, with a number of vendors ranging in costs to suit your taste. However, prices at the market aren’t fixed, so don’t be afraid to haggle.

Kapali Carsi-Grand Bazaar

Outdoors

As part of the "coasts will belong to the people" campaign, Istanbul's Kilyos beach has recently been opened to the public. It is only about 35 kilometers north of the city center. Lifeguards, bathrooms, and changing and shower cabins are provided.

Kilyos Beach

Every April, three million tulips bloom across Istanbul's parks and public spaces in an array of designs and colors just in time for the International Istanbul Tulip Festival. The tulip is so essential to Turkish history that some people refer to the entire reign of Sultan Ahmed III as the "Tulip Era." After touring the tulips through town, visitors should head to the center of this free festival, Emirgan Park, to enjoy concerts, art exhibitions, photo competitions, and live performances by marbling artists.

Emirgan Park Istanbul Tulip Festival

When in search of shade from the relentless Turkish sun, pay a visit to the tree-filled grounds of Gulhane Park, formerly the Topkapi Palace’s royal gardens. Since becoming Istanbul’s first public park in 1912, it has served as one of the most popular locations for city residents to while away the afternoon. If you don’t mind crowds, plan your visit during one of the free public concerts that occasionally take place in the park on summer weekends. And Yildiz Park, once a part of the Yildiz palace, offers great views of the Bosporus and outdoor fitness areas with exercise machines to use free of charge. The park's porcelain workshops, put in place by Sultan Abdulhamid II, are open to the public and are still in use today.

Yildiz Palace

Music

Born in Istanbul in 1928, star soprano Leyla Gencer sang her way through almost four decades of leading roles in operas throughout Turkey and Italy. The Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV) has now established a re-creation of the Milan residence of "La Diva Turca," open Wednesday through Saturday on the second floor of their new headquarters in Sishane. Visitors can check out Gencer's piano, library, awards, medals, accessories, costumes and even a set-up of the dining room where she and her guests would feast on her favorite Turkish cuisine. Admission is free, but reservations should be made ahead of time.

Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts

Tünel, one of the world's oldest metros (with only two stations and a 1.5 minute ride), also gives its name to the surrounding neighborhood, a nerve center of music for the city of Istanbul. Walking around and beyond the neighborhood square, you can often listen to street-side music as you explore the small music stores and cafés. Thanks to musician Panos Ioannidis, visitors in Tünel during the summer months have the opportunity to hear music from a barrel organ, an instrument that, though historically tied to the area, has been absent for the past 100 years. If you're looking for a place to sit down, nearby Babylon or Otto Tünel (one of several Otto restaurants and clubs in the area) are both loved by locals for good food and live, energetic music.

Tunel 141 Years Old

The International Istanbul Jazz Festival, which celebrated its 17th year in 2010, is spreading through more and more of the city. In fact 2010 marked the first year of Tünel Feast, "a festival within a festival," that turned the alleys and cafés of Tünel into a giant feast area where audiences could hop from one free concert to another late into the evening. Museums and parks across the city host plenty of free concerts during the three-week festival in July, giving those in Istanbul a chance to hear not only local Turkish jazz music, but musicians like Tony Bennett, Imogen Heap and even the Panorama Jazz Band straight from New Orleans.

Istanbul Jazz Festival Tunel

A smaller jazz festival, the Akbank International Jazz Festival held in Istanbul in late September and October, is a smaller and more intimate jazz jam that focuses solely on the music. While most concerts during the week require tickets, the festival also offers free workshops on things like jazz photography and T-shirt design.

Akbank Jazz Festival

Film Festivals

Also in the spring, Istanbul celebrates the International Istanbul Film Festival, organized by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. The festival is two weeks long and brings together filmmakers from all over the world. Visitors can attend free panel discussions and master classes if the register ahead of time.

International Istanbul Film Festival

An entire week of short film screenings happens at various venues throughout Istanbul in November during the Istanbul International Short Film Festival. Every year roughly 12,000 people enjoy free screenings of fiction, animation, experimental and documentary films, all with English subtitles.

Istanbul International Short Film Festival

Nightlife

Dogzstar, a small neighborhood club in Beyoglu, doesn’t charge a cover and infuses a relaxed, hip vibe with neo-punk energy to create a homey feel. Resident DJ Ari mixes new and old beats that add to the club’s smoothness, proving the space as a good bar for both dancing and drinking.

Dogzstar

Popular among both travelers and locals for its modern Turkish cuisine and views from its Nu Teras rooftop restaurant, the Nu Club hosts one of the city’s hottest party spots in its basement setting located within the Nu Pera complex in the Beyoglu neighborhood. A guest DJ from France joins local legends Yunus Güvenen and Bariş Türker each month. Together they help build a fun, cool atmosphere for this intimate club. No cover charge.

Nu Teras

Looking for a place to eat, drink, and dance without having to move from one spot to another? Cafes, restaurants, bars, and clubs line Akbiyik Caddesi, a street that cuts through the heart of Sultanahmet. Known as the “Avenue of the White Moustache,” this famous street always promises a lively night out, with a handful of eateries placing tables and chairs on the street for diners to enjoy an alfresco meal outdoors under the cool night sky.

Akbiyik Caddesi

Erenler Cay Bahcesi, an old teahouse located near Istanbul University, serves as a popular alternative to a night of drinking and dancing at one of the city’s expensive clubs. Its tables are occupied with students and adults alike who enjoy smoking nargileh out of a hookah—long a favorite Turkish and Middle East pastime—and don’t mind sitting shoulder to shoulder with the person next to them. The water pipes aren’t cheap, but there’s no cover charge, which calls for a stop to experience the atmosphere of this famous hookah bar.

Erenler Cay Bahcesi

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James Bond Locations In Istanbul

FROM RUSSIA (AND ISTANBUL) WITH LOVE

ISTANBUL LOCATIONS FEATURED JAMES BOND FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

A tour through Istanbul’s landmarks is always exciting, but it can feel like an epic pilgrimage of sorts for James Bond fans. Two of the films in the Ian Fleming spy series have been filmed here, including “The World is Not Enough” and “From Russia with Love.”

1. The Russian Consulate in Istanbul

In From Russia With Love 1963, Bond is sent to Istanbul to meet with Tatiana Romanova in order to try to obtain the Lector decoder from the Russians. He does not know that Romanova is working under orders of Colonel Klebb. Romanova is working at the Russian Consulate in Istanbul where she, unknowingly, is recruited to SPECTRE by Klebb.

The entrance gates to the garden of the Russian Consulate is seen very early in the film when Romanova and her colleagues leave for the day and later when Grant parks the Citroën with the dead Bulgar outside the entrance gate, observed by the Russian guard.

From Russia With Love was filmed during the spring and summer of 1963, mainly on location in Istanbul. Here, in the Şişli district, you can find the entrance gate and the building used as the consulate in the film.

The "Russian consulate" can be found along Halaskargazi Caddesi, and the entrance gate has the number 161. The building is located at a very large property surrounded by big garden. This is the only villa along Halaskargazi Caddesi.

If you walk to the back of the house (to street that runs along the back of the property) and you take the first small street to the right of the building, you are walking down the street 'T.M. Ali Bey'. A funny fact coincidence considering the name of Bond's ally in the film, Ali Kerim Bey.

The entrance gate and fence surround a large building, also briefly seen later in the film. The villa and the neighborhood will be covered in more detail later. This is definitely one of the best Bond locations in Istanbul and well worth a visit.

The fact that the location has not changed notably since 1963 and the fact that you can walk around this location undisturbed, since this location is unknown and of no interest to the common tourist, makes it even more memorable. A taxi from the city centre (for instance Hagia Sophia) should cost less than 25-30 Lira.

2. The Russian Consulate / Şişli Mosque

Quite a few scenes in From Russia With Love takes place in and around the Russian consulate in Istanbul. After killing the Bulgar who works for the Russians tailing Bond in Istanbul, Donald Grant parks the Citroën with the dead man outside of the Russian consulate on Klebb's orders, to cast suspicions on the British. The Russian entrance guard gets suspicious of Grant and walks up to the car, only to find the Bulgar dead.

The consulate is located along Halaskargazi Caddesi in the Şişli disctrict of Istanbul and in a few scenes you see a mosque visible in the far background. This mosque is called Şişli Merkez Cami and is located located in Şişli Square between the Büyükdere Avenue and the streets Halaskargazi and Abide-i Hürriyet. As seen from the above picture, a BP petrol station was located right opposite the consulate in 1963. This petrol station is gone.

The mosque is also visible when Bond arrives at the consulate in a taxi, and when Romanova leaves the consulate with her colleagues earlier in the film. Needless to say, the city has changed around the mosque, but the location is still recognizable and well-wort visiting. The fact that all the scenes outside the consulate and the actual consulate building are situated in the same place, and that they are still recognizable, makes it an exquisite location.

The Şişli mosque was the first mosque built Şişli Square during the Republican era in Turkey, after 1923. It was constructed between 1945 and 1950, due to the fact that the Şişli district was lacking a mosque at the time. It had thus only been open for about ten years at the time of filming of From Russia With Love. It is designed in the classical Ottoman architectural style.

After Grant parks the Citroën, he jumps into a taxi where Klebb is waiting, and they drive off along Halaskargazi Caddesi. During their taxi ride, another mosque is very briefly seen, here.
















This mosque is, however, located in another part of Istanbul, in the Beşiktaş disctrict by the Bosporus. Despite the vast change in the city of Istanbul, a few houses seen when Grant gets into the taxi can still be recognized on location today, for instance the beige building in the second picture below.

3. Sean Connery in Istanbul - Dolmabahçe Mosque




After picking up Donald Grant outside the Russian Consulate Klebb and Grant drive off in a taxi. During the ride through Istanbul one particular building is briefly visible.

The mosque is visible behind Grant and Klebb in the taxi is the Dolmabahçe Mosque, located just by the Bosporus along the road 'Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi'. The mosque can be found in the Beşiktaş district, approximately 15 minutes by taxi from the Galata bridge. Immediately after passing the mosque, the taxi with Grant and Klebb takes off to the left on what appears to be the street 'İnebolu Sokak'.

However, it would probably not be worth the trouble to find this location if it wasn't for the picture below, namely the photograph with Sean Connery, taken during filming. In this picture Connery is standing on the street 'Dolmabahçe Gazhane Caddesi' with the mosque visible in the background. The reason for Connery's visit to this location was for the shooting of a scene that, sadly, was deleted from the finished film.

The mosque is located right next to the Dolmabahçe Palace, which was the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1922, and which certainly is a much more visited tourist attraction in Istanbul than the Dolmabahçe mosque. The easiest way to get here is probably to take a taxi to the Dolmabahçe Palace, but it is also possible to take one of the Bosporus ferries to the Kabataş station. From there it is just a short walk to the south.

The deleted scene that was shot here on location features Bond, Kerim and the Bulgar who is tailing Bond earlier in the film. Apparently, Bond is on his way to meet with Romanova and is trying to loose the mysterious Bulgarian pursuer. Bond hops into a taxi and takes control of the taxi's brakes, causing the Bulgar to run into the back of the taxi. A third car joins the pile-up and the driver of the third car turns out to be Kerim. As Bond makes good his escape in the Rolls Royce, Kerim simply says to the Bulgar: "My friend, this is life". This was supposedly a brilliant scene that Terence Young shot several times in order to get the long ash on Kerim's cigarette that Pedro Armendáriz insisted on. However, during a screening it was discovered that the Bulgar in this scene had actually been killed by Grant in the St Sophia earlier. Therefore, this scene was cut and to my knowledge only a few stills survived, such as the picture below. The fact that the Bulgar's Citroën appears to have crashed into Kerim's Ford in front of it, contradicts the story that Bond was in a taxi.

4. Istanbul Garı - Sirkeci Train Station




After escaping from the Russian consulate through Kerim's secret tunnel, Bond and his entourage come up very close to the Orient Express railway station in Istanbul, "İstanbul Garı".

As Bond, Tania and Kerim cross the street and run into the railway station, a fire truck is passing to give the impression that this place is located very close to the Russian consulate, where the fire is still going on. However, this location is on the other side of town from where the Russian consulate was located, namely in Sirkeci, a quarter located in the Eminönü neighborhood of the Fatih district.

The Terminal is located on the tip of Istanbul's historic peninsula right next to the Golden Horn and just northwest of Gülhane Park and the famous Topkapı Palace. The beautiful station, one of the most beautiful Bond locations in Istanbul, was built in 1890 by the Oriental Railway. Bond and Tania run across the street Ankara Caddesi and enter the station from the west entrance, and thus not the main entrance with faces the north. The kiosk where Kerim's men are waiting was located somewhere along Ankara Caddesi but the area has changed notably since 1963.

5. Orient Express from Istanbul - Sirkeci station

When Bond and Tania escapes from the Russian consulate with the Lector decoder, they follow Kerim through the secret tunnels beneath the consulate where he is waiting for them. Kerim has planned the escape route and they all come up through a hatch in the floor in a small shop, which supposedly is located just opposite the Istanbul train station. They are escaping Istanbul on the Orient Express train and arrive at the platform just as the train is about to depart.

The Istanbul train station is definitely one of the more interesting Bond locations in Istanbul, and the place is filled with history. It is from this very station that the renowned Orient Express departed for Paris, for almost a hundred years. The Orient Express began service in 1883 by the company 'Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits'. In 1889 it started operations between Paris and Istanbul, the two cities that were the original endpoints of the service and that have most prominently become associated with the Orient Express.

When Bond and Romanova is running out on the platform in the station they are spotted by Commissar Benz from the Russian consulate. Benz is the Soviet security officer in Istanbul, also stationed at the consulate, who apparently watches the airports and train stations for defectors.

Commissar Benz is having tea with another man from the Russian consulate. He recognises Romanova and immediately understands that she is defecting to Bond. Before jumping on the train he orders his man to telephone the consulate and tell them that corporal Romanova has defected to England.

The cafe or restaurant where Benz is sitting is located on the platform and is part of the original station building. There is still a restaurant located in building today although the metal fence that screened off the cafe and the platform in the film has been removed. The facade of the building and the notable round windows are however still very recognisable.

Even though the facade and exterior are very recognisable, the round windows are not seen in this first scene when Bond and Tania board the train, but later when the train makes the first stop in "Belgrade". Istanbul train station namely doubled for all the train stations in the film. The scenes both in Belgade, where Bond meets with one of Kerim's sons, and Zagreb, where Bond encounters Donald Grant for the first time (supposedly meeting with Captain Nash), were all filmed at this location. The different parts of the Sirkeci station that were used for the different train stations will be covered later.

"Now I'm sure Commissar Benz will have a much safer journey!"

Bond and Tania are entering the train station from the western entrance, which is located along the road Ankara Caddesi. Tania stops as she sees Benz at the cafe before Bond is pulling her away to the train.

The original Orient Express ceased already in 1977 but Belmond, a new private company still offers the original route from Paris to Istanbul today, with the original 1920's Orient Express carriages lovingly restored to its former glory. This Orient Express departs from Istanbul to Venice only once a year on the 2 September and a single ticket costs approximately €8500. This is probably the finest luxury experience the world has ever known.

6. Daniela Bianchi in Istanbul - Dolmabahçe clocktower

While filming From Russia With Love in Istanbul, the film team took the opportunity to photograph the main cast around famous locations around town. Connery and Bianchi were for instance photographed at the Attaürk Bridge and a promotional still of Connery were taken during the filming of the deleted scene at the Dolmabahçe Mosque, covered earlier. Were close to the Dolmabahçe Mosque is the Dolmabahçe Palace, one of the main tourist attractions in Istanbul. It is therefore not surprising that the cast visited the palace as well, probably while shooting the scene with Kerim and Bond in front of the mosque, covered here. Daniela Bianchi is seen in front of the clock tower located in the garden of the palace.

The clock tower was constructed and added to the Dolmabahçe Palace in the mid 1890's. It stands in front of its Treasury Gate on a square along the European waterfront of Bosporus, very close to the Dolmabahçe Mosque. It is designed in Ottoman neo-baroque style. Its clock was manufactured by the renowned French clock maker house of Jean-Paul Garnier.

7. Firuz Aga Camii - Stalking Tatiana

When Tatiana Romanova is on her way to drop off the architects plans of the Russian consulate, for Bond, she walks past various locations in Istanbul. Romanova is followed by one of the Bulgarians who later will face his demise in the Aya Sofia church. After walking across the Galata bridge, Romanova is passing a 15th century mosque in the historical centre of Istanbul, the Firuz Ağa Camii. At the time of filming From Russia With Love 1963, there was no trace of the surrounding city and it looks like the mosque was located in a field.

When the stalking Bulgar stops by the corner of the mosque to watch Romanova, Istanbul's famous Blue Mosque is visble. Istanbul has changed vastly since 1963 and the sandy patch of ground seen behind the Bulgar in the film has been transformed into a park.

The Firuz Ağa Camii was completed in 1491 by the man Firuz Ağa, who was the head treasurer of Sultan Beyazıt II. It is located right next to the Sultanahmet tram station, along the Divan Yolu Caddesi, which is only a few minutes from the Basilica Cistern. Surrounding the mosque is Mehmet Akif Ersoy park. The small mosque looks cramped in today's urban landscape of Istanbul.

to be continued...

50 Years Of 007. From Russia With Love. Photoset

From Russia With Love - Sean Connery wearing sunglasses in Istanbul. The film was shot on location in Istanbul in 1963 and includes lots of sweeping scenes of the City.

From Russia With Love - Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi) standing in front of the Dolmabahce clocktower. From Russia With Love, 1963. Photo-set. all images subject to copyright.

From Russia With Love - James Bond (Sean Connery) and Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi) stand on the ferry while he records her description of the Lektor encoding device.

From Russia With Love - In Istanbul, Tatiana Romanova goes to the appointment she has with Rosa Klebb (Lotte Lenya). The pretty cipher clerk doesn't know that the officer she is a about to meet is actually defected from the Russian Secret Service to SPECTRE, the criminal organisation.

From Russia With Love - Daniela Bianchi and Sean Connery relax on an Istanbul hilltop overlooking the Bosphorus. James Bond visits the airport, the railway station, the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia and sails down the Bosphorus.

From Russia With Love - James Bond (Sean Connery) and Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi) stand together in front of a scenic background including the Suleymaniye Mosque.

From Russia With Love - Ian Fleming poses in front of the Orient Express on location in Turkey. During production in 1963 Ian Fleming took Dana Broccoli sightseeing on a boat on the Bosphorus. Ian Fleming had a great knowledge of the city as he had been on an assignment as a journalist the year before. He based the character Kerim Bey on his friend, Oxford-educated, Nazim Kalkaren. In Cubby Broccoli’s autobiography (The Man Who Brought James Bond 007 to the Screen), he says that in Istanbul, Ian was in his element. “He loved the sounds, the spicy smells, the bazaars, the street merchants and the belly dancers…”

From Russia With Love - Author Ian Fleming poses in front of one of the Moslem minarets in downtown Istanbul, while visiting the location of 'From Russia with Love' in Turkey.

From Russia With Love - James Bond (Sean Connery) and Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi) posing in front of the Blue Mosque. The crew were shooting in Turkey for 22 days 22nd April - 13th May 1963. On the 29th and 30th April the crew were shooting the exterior of a narrow alley and outside the Sehzade Mosque, at night.

From Russia With Love - Tatiana Romanova (Daniela Bianchi) poses in front of the Blue Mosque. Other Turkish locations include halkali region in Istanbul, kabatas ferry, pendik (Istanbul province), Adriatic Coast. In Cubby’s autobiography he writes that From Russia With Love gave him the opportunity to shoot in one of the world's most exotic places, Istanbul.

From Russia with Love Theme Song - James Bond

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